Restaurant Review
20.21

A Wolfgang Puck Restaurant at the Walker Art Center

Minneapolis, MN, USA

Ambiance 2/5

I was mildly disappointed with the overly simplistic nature of 20.21. I realize that the restaurant is situated in a modern art museum, located in a progressive city, but the much needed detailed touches (that could have amplified the impression that you were experiencing a luxury dining experience, were missing.

Perhaps the white, stark atmosphere and unimpressive tableware were planned to yield power to the breathtaking atrium window or the signature Wolfgang Puck cuisine, but it left me feeling empty. Nearby restaurant Chambers takes the same approach, yet by adding subtle touches of lighting and décor they execute it brilliantly.

Food 3.75/5

My fine dining expeditions across the Twin Cities are limited, however by comparison to Café Lurcat, W.A. Frost and Vincent I will say that 20.21 made a competitive showing. Lurcat remains the best food I’ve consumed in the area, but 20.21 is worth the visit.

Small Plates
Upon being seated, a plate of spicy green beans is placed in front of you. The crunchy and fiery bites were considerably good. Our small plate selections of crab cakes and ten spice egg rolls were also enjoyable, with the egg rolls being more average and the crab cakes being outstanding. An aioli sauce complimented the light, fluffy cakes perfectly.

Entrees
For the main course, I selected the pork roast with apple chutney and Dijon mustard sauce, while my date elected to have the roast duck. The moist and tender pork was beautifully arranged a top a bed of hot, flavorful spinach. I was happy to see that the mustard sauce was under the meat, allowing you to choose how much you wanted with each bite, rather than having it drizzled on top. Additionally, the sauce didn’t have too much bite (as can sometimes happen with Dijon) and contrasted well with the light sweetness of the apple chutney. Overall I found no reasons for criticism with my dish.

Sides
Accompanying the pork was a generous side of bleu cheese au gratin potatoes. While the potatoes were prepared to the right size, texture and wellness, the bleu cheese was far too powerful for more than a small taste. My excitement was high for this side dish, as I’m a huge fan of bleu cheese, but these were just a bit too much.

Service 4/5

The wait staff at 20.21 did an impeccable job of staying in the background, but remaining attentive, while not appearing intrusive. We barely knew they were there except when we needed them to be. While they emphasized the fact that their menu was set for sharing, there was no pressure to do so. There was also no forward selling of bottled wine rather than a glass and our refusal of dessert was greeted with understanding. Water glasses were consistently being topped, crumbs escorted away and politeness won us over.

Overall: 9.75/15

The ambiance hurts this rating, but for food and service 20.21 is above par.